How to measure for replacement cabinet doors.

Be sure to double check you measurements.
If you are not using your old doors to order sizes, just add 1" to the height and width of your cabinet openings for both doors and drawer fronts. This gives you a 1/2" overlay all the way around the door or drawer front.
List each door separately.
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR DOORS AND DRAWER FRONTS FALL WITHIN THE MINIMUM & MAXIMUM SIZES AVAILABLE (price page of each series has the minimum and maximum sizes)
If you have a door opening that uses two doors butted together without a center stile, measure the ENTIRE OPENING WIDTH and add only 1" total. Divide that number by 2 then subtract 1/16" for each door (to give 1/8" space between doors after they are hung. For example: A 30 1/4" inch opening with two butting doors would be measured as follows: 30 1/4" plus 1" = 31 1/4" divided by 2 = 15 5/8". Subtract the 1/16" inch to get 15 9/16". This is the size of doors to order. You still add 1" to the height of the doors.

NOTE THIS!!!!
Always list the width first !
(Example 18 1/2" X 28 1/4" and 18 1/2" X 5" drawer front )
What can happen when you don't? A good example of what can happen concerns the sets of doors over most refrigerators and sometimes over stoves. The openings in these two places in the kitchen are often wider than they are tall. That means, if you make the mistake of listing the height first, the wood grain will be running the wrong way and you will have to re-order. This is the number one mistake people make when ordering. So please double check. Remember, measure twice so we only have to cut once.

What About Lazy Susans?
Lazy Susans doors are simple to measure. Simply measure from the front edge of each side to the farthest point in the back (W) and from the top to bottom (H) and mark your measurement with "L/S" (Example: 10 1/2" X 27 1/4" "LS" ) List lazy susans as 2 doors. We will miter the back edges of the 2 doors to create the 90 degree angle you will need when installing them.

You can also order doors to butt against each other (instead of mitered at a 45 degree angle), by ordering one door the real width (10 1/2" in this example) and marking it "TB1" & "SS", which means that the edge profile will only be put on the "TOP, BOTTOM & 1 SIDE", and the door will have a "SPECIAL STILE" on the unedged (flat and square) side.The normal width of the stile is 2 1/4", but with a "SS" it is made 3" wide. The second door must be ordered exactly 3/4" narrower than the first door, and marked "TB1", but without the "SS" suffix. This way, it will have the edge profile on the "TOP, BOTTOM, & 1 SIDE", but will have a standard 2 1/4" wide vertical stile. When the doors are butted together at a 90 degree angle, the narrower of the 2 doors will cover the wider 3" stile on the second door, and both doors will have the same size center panels as well as the same apparent width vertical stiles at the 90 degree turn. This is the simpler solution if you want to have the doors overlay the cabinet and open outwards on the same style hinges as the rest of the doors. You may want to replace your lazy susan with a "kidney shaped" unit while you are at it.

Other Things to Consider
Most hinges are designed to fit 1 1/2" minimum stiles. (Stiles run vertically and rails run horizontally) If you have 2 doors that hang hinge-to-hinge, you should have a 3" style. If yours is narrower, you can simply screw a length of oak or pine stained or refaced to match your frames to each side of the opening before you measure for the doors. Adding about 3/4" to each side usually does the trick and keeps the door centered. You need a minimum or 2" where doors meet hinge-to-hinge.

Prepping Drawers
To prepare your drawers for the new drawer fronts, simply saw off the existing front making sure to leave square ends. Add a piece of pine to the front of the drawer to screw the new drawer front to. It is usually a good idea to pre-drill holes in the sides of the drawer for this purpose. Some extra sturdy drawers are even easier to prepare. Just cut off the overhang of the drawer front so the drawer will slide back into the cabinet flush with the frame. Make sure the remaining front is still solidly attached before installing your new drawer front with screws. One final note of caution: Be very careful not to put a screw through your new drawer front when attaching it. Pre-drilling the drawer itself is always a good idea.

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